Leather care for saddle and bridle: the right routine

The saddle and bridle are among the most valuable pieces of equipment in the yard. Leather is a natural material that reacts to sweat, moisture and the dry air from central heating. With a simple routine it stays supple and tear-resistant. Especially in autumn and winter, when tack gets wet more often and the tack room is damp, it is worth taking a closer look. Here you can find out how to clean, care for and store your leather tack properly.

How often should I clean and grease my saddle?

You should clean much more often than you grease. The areas that come into contact with horse sweat deserve a quick, regular clean with daily use, while grease is only needed at longer intervals. There is no single number that applies to all saddles. Recommendations from manufacturers and saddlers range from a thorough clean every few rides through to a rule of thumb of about every three months for cleaning and greasing. The leather care manufacturer Passier, for example, recommends cleaning the saddle on top and underneath after riding at least every five days. The saddle manufacturer Stübben suggests at least one care session per month depending on use.

Use, weather and type of leather are decisive. Reins get wet and dirty particularly quickly and should therefore be cared for more often. According to a master saddler, oiled leather only rarely needs to be treated with grease.

In what order should I care for leather?

The basic rule is: clean first, then allow to dry, then condition. Care products should never be applied to dirty or wet leather.

• Disassemble: Take the bridle completely apart. A quick phone photo beforehand helps when putting it back together.
• Rough clean: Brush off loose dirt and hairs.
• Clean: Work with a damp sponge, lukewarm water and saddle soap or leather cleaner, including the underside and the saddle panels.
• Allow to dry: The leather must dry before grease or balm is applied.
• Care: Apply care products thinly, allow them to soak in and then polish off any residue.

Glycerine soap not only cleans but also supplies the leather with a little moisture. Do not forget buckles, stirrup leathers and the insides. Sweat collects particularly in these places, and sweat contains salts that attack the leather.

Oil, grease or balm: what does my leather need?

Leather grease or balm is suitable for regular care, while oil is intended more for dried-out, hardened leather. Oil penetrates deeply and can soften the leather fibres, so it should be used sparingly. Greases with beeswax or lanolin form a protective film. A master saddler recommends using oil and grease alternately depending on the condition of the leather.

After greasing, the leather should be allowed to rest. The saddle manufacturer Devoucoux recommends ideally twelve hours for this. Wipe off excess grease before you next ride so that dust does not stick to it.

Can I over-grease leather?

Yes, too much care is also harmful. If grease remains on the surface, there was too much. Over-greased leather becomes soft, greasy and can swell. It loses strength, which is particularly undesirable for weight-bearing straps. Here, more is not better.

It is also worth being restrained with the products themselves. Experts advise against rough brushes, soaking the leather and rancid products. Some combined cleaners can harden leather. It is better to choose products that are explicitly intended for saddle leather and to follow the saddle manufacturer’s instructions.

Do I have to grease a new saddle straight away?

Usually not. New saddles are generally treated before they leave the factory. A master saddler recommends using them for several months first before greasing them again. Regular cleaning is still useful right from the start.

My saddle has got wet: what do I need to do?

Allow wet leather to dry slowly in the air, never on a radiator, in front of a fan heater or in direct sunlight. Direct heat makes leather brittle and can damage it permanently. An ideal place is a well-ventilated room at a moderate temperature where the tack gets air from all sides.

Only grease the leather once it is dry again because wet leather does not absorb grease well. If the saddle is very dirty, clean it carefully first.

What helps against mould on leather?

You can remove mould with a damp cloth and leather cleaner, and you should repeat this daily until no more appears. After that the leather must be stored in a dry place. According to the care manufacturer Leovet the main cause is damp storage in the tack room or in the trailer. A master saddler recommends adding a little vinegar to the cleaning water to help against mould.

Prevention is easier than removal. As a guide for the tack room, temperatures of around 10 to 15 °C and a humidity of 40 to 60 percent are recommended. Above about 70 percent humidity, mould thrives. A container with cat litter or rice can bind moisture. For longer breaks Carr & Day & Martin recommend cleaning and caring for the leather beforehand, storing it in a cool, dry place without direct sunlight and covering the saddle with a breathable cover.

How do I care for suede or napped leather on the saddle?

Suede and nubuck on the seat or knee rolls are not greased, they are brushed when dry. A special suede brush raises the nap again. For protection, a waterproofer for napped leather is suitable instead of grease or oil.

How do I care for leather riding boots properly?

You care for leather riding boots in three steps: clean briefly after every ride, clean and care for them thoroughly on a regular basis and allow wet boots to dry slowly in the air only. The Dutch boot manufacturer Petrie recommends wiping the boots down directly after riding with a damp cloth or leather cleaner because sweat, sand and skin oils damage the leather. If you wear them every day, a thorough care routine about once a week is recommended, for occasional riding about once a month.

• Clean: Remove dust and dirt with a soft cloth or brush, and in the case of heavy soiling use a leather cleaner. Household cleaners are unsuitable.
• Care: Apply leather cream or balm sparingly in small circles. The manufacturer Königs recommends 15 to 30 minutes for it to soak in, after which you should polish with a dry cloth.
• Protect: A waterproofing spray keeps out moisture. Allow the boots to dry for about twelve hours afterwards.
• Zip: open completely when taking the boots off and remove sand, dust and hairs regularly with a small brush.

Store the boots upright in a cool, dry and well-ventilated room, ideally with boot trees so that the boot legs keep their shape. Care for them even during longer breaks from riding, because according to Petrie, leather that is not used dries out and can crack. Patent leather only needs a damp cloth, nubuck a suede brush and a suitable waterproofing spray instead of cream.

Why is leather care also a safety issue?

When you are caring for your tack you see it from very close up and can spot damage before it becomes dangerous. The German Equestrian Federation (FN) points out that the stitching on the stirrup leathers should be checked regularly because they carry a lot of weight. The stirrup bar and girth straps should also be checked regularly to make sure they are working properly. Leather straps can stretch over time and should then be replaced.

When cleaning, pay particular attention to cracks at stress points, loose stitching, torn holes and bent buckles. Anything you notice should be looked at by a saddler.

You can find suitable leather care such as saddle soap, leather balm and leather oil from Ahrens Reitsport in the care products category. We are happy to advise you in our shop in Tangstedt on which product is suitable for your leather. If your saddle or bridle is damaged, our after-sales service can help with repairs, adjustments and spare parts.